Shampoo Bars are Soap

Ingredient Chronicles - Shampoo Bars are Soap

Yes shampoo bars are simply soap.  Before you start wondering why you use soap in your hair let's discuss shampoo bars, their purpose, ingredients, how they're made, along with the pros and cons.

What is a shampoo bar? What's their purpose?

A shampoo bar is typically hand made soap bars that are created to cleanse the hair as a replacement for sulfate based shampoos. In recent years using shampoo bars instead of sulfate based shampoos has increased as consumers have moved toward more natural ways of caring for their hair.

Shampoo bars work similar to shampoos in it's cleansing capabilities the difference is the way they are made and the different ingredients used to make the lather.  In traditional shampoos, sulfates are the chosen surfactant used to increase lather, cleanse the hair, and lift the hair shaft to prepare the hair to absorb the conditioner (hence the higher pH to open the hair shaft).  The process for making shampoo bar soaps is different.

Ingredients/How are they made?
Shampoo bars are made using by mixing sodium hydroxide (lye) with triglycerides (oils and fats) together with water to form the process known as saponification.  During saponification the lye and water mixture reacts with the oils/fats to form soap and glycerin (glycerin is a by-product of saponification).  You may ask what happens to the lye during this process? The lye "disappears" during the chemical reaction and the curing process - will discuss that later- allows time for the pH to lower and the burning effect of lye to diminish.  The oils in the chemical reaction lend the softening effect to the soap. Side note, the more oils used the milder the soap.  Any oil can be used to make shampoo bars, but the main oils used are coconut oil, palm oil, and olive oil.  Since they typically produce the best lather.

Most soap makers us the cold press method in which the bars are allowed to cure once the chemical reaction is complete. Curing is simply the process of letting the bars sit for a while before use to allow the saponification process to finish.  As the bars cure the water evaporates and the bars become milder, harder, and the lather increases.

Pros of Shampoo Bar

• High oil content can be useful for it's emollient (softening) properties 
• Can be mild compared to some sulfate based products depending on how they're made
• For hair/skin that is already dry it can help replace oils removed by the cleansing process
• Glycerin can remain and be very moisturizing for hair and skin

Cons Of Shampoo Bars

• High pH level (normally 8-10) which can lead to dry, tangled hair (depending on oils used and how it's made).  This pH disruption can cause breakage, contribute to frizzy hair, and reduce the natural gloss of hair
• If used in hard water (calcium, magnesium, or iron deposits)  it can leave a film on hair that needs to be removed using harsh cleansing methods
• Can leave the hair "squeaky" clean or feeling stripped.  That feeling is really the film deposit that has been left behind on your hair which can also lead to tangled, dry hair
• High pH level can cause dry, itch scalp

Ways to remove the film can be simple such as using vinegar to remove the build-up and lower the pH of the hair.  If needed you can also use a sulfate based shampoo to help remove the build-up on the hair. Experimenting with shampoo bars will be the key to learning how your hair reacts either positively or negatively.

If you have any questions, comments, experiences with shampoo bars please share.


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Nappreneur of the Month Ep1 - Pura Body Naturals

Check out my interview with The Curl Station. I was the Nappreneur of the Month!!!
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Baby Oil Recipe - Dump the Mineral Oil Please

Baby Oil is a favorite among most people when it comes to caring for their baby's skin and sometimes adult skin.  If you read ingredient labels I'm pretty sure you know baby oil is simply mineral oil with fragrance, aloe, or something else mixed in - pretty simple mix. 

On a positive note, baby oil is inexpensive and cost effective. 

On the opposite end of the spectrum mineral oil may not be the best for your skin because of the following:

1. Mineral oil and petroleum have no nutritional or health benefit for skin. Your skin needs minerals and vitamins which mineral oil doesn't have. For example, olive oil has vitamins a, B, C, D, and K while mineral oil have no vitamins or mineral at all.
2. Mineral oil is derived from crude oil which is used to make gasoline or petrol. It was initially used as a lubricant meaning it's used to coat not absorb. The molecules are too big to be absorbed fully by the skin which can result in product just sitting on top of the skin, however most companies use other carrier chemicals in products which help the skin absorb products with petroleum and mineral oil. Since everything placed on the skin is absorbed in your body internally, compare it to putting a bio diesel product in your body in small increments over time. Is it harmful?? Who knows as consumers we have no clue and science is yet to provide any hard evidence of its effects.

The great thing is you can mix your own baby oil in a flash with oils that provide nourishment for the skin. 

Basic Recipe

2 oz. Olive Oil

2oz. Grapeseed Oil

2 oz. Avocado Oil

Whisk the oils together and place in a air tight glass bottle.  Can be stored and used for up to 12 months.  Other oils can be used as well, these were chosen based on their skin absorbing properties of not leaving the skin oily.

Calming and Soothing Recipe

2 oz. Olive Oil

2oz. Grapeseed Oil
2 oz. Avocado Oil
Chamomile Flower Buds
Lavender Flower Buds

Option #1 place flower buds in glass container and pour oil over them.  The flower buds can remain in the bottle with the oils for an infusion that will release over time.

Option #2 using the double boiler method place flower buds and oils in a stainless steel bowl over low heat for 20 minutes for an instant infusion.  Strain oils over cheesecloth to remove flower buds before placing in glass container. 

If the flower buds aren't available you can add 2 drops of Chamomile and Lavender Essential Oils which are known for their calming and soothing effects. 

**Note- Before applying any oil to skin please be aware of any allergies that may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.**

Naturally You

Milk Bath Anyone - Homemade recipe for softer glowing skin

Historically Cleopatra, Queen Elizabeth, and Elisabeth of Bavaria to name a few have attributed their beautiful skin to milk baths.  That's right milk really does a body good!!!  The lactic acid, which is an alpha hydroxy acid in milk is said to dissolve the proteins which hold dead skin together bringing forth softer, radiant looking skin. The alpha hydroxy acids are also helpful to exfoliate the skin as well. You will leave the tub with smooth baby soft skin literally.

You can use various milks for different benefits to your skin.

•  Soy or rice milk hydrate the skin promoting the growth of healthy new cells
• Goat's Milk is great for obtaining smoother skin and it has the same pH as the skin

Ingredients:
2-3 cups of milk (whole, skim, 2%, or powdered milk)
rose petals (optional just make the bath look pretty)
you can add a few drops of oil if desired (not too much you don't want to slip) - olive oil, almond oil, coconut oil to name a few

Add the ingredients to your bath water and lay back and relax. After soaking for about 10-15 minutes start scrubbing your skin with a loofah or sponge to gently exfoliate. When done pat your skin dry and apply moisturizer.

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Luv ♥ My ♥ Kynxx: Pura Body Naturals Review

Luv ♥ My ♥ Kynxx: Pura Body Naturals Review: "A few weeks ago I responded to a post on Facebook asking if anyone was interested in being a product tester for a company called Pura Body ..."

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A truly natural soap

A couple of months ago I discovered black soap and now I'm hooked.  I would normally see the bar soap; I can admit I was turned off by the appearance and the smell wasn't the best either.  My first thoughts were what is it and how is it made?  After researching and talking to someone from Kenya I figured I would be a fool not to try it.  I decided to buy the liquid because it would be easier to use and scent with essential oils.  After using it the very first time I knew I would always keep some around.  I compare it to castille soap as it can be used as a complete body cleanser.  I use it to clean my face, my body, and sometimes my hair. 

The wonderful thing about black soap is it's really all natural.  From what I've been told it's a centuries process used by Africans as they utilize their natural resources instead of commercial products.  If you've never used it don't be afraid of the smell and appearance.  It may actually be wonderful for your whole body.



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At Home Spa

Even during tough economic times we still deserve to pamper ourselves. I'm a big fan of facials, so I figure why not use natural resources to treat my face.  I went to the herb shop and discovered they have a large selection of natural clays that are great for drawing toxins out of the body and detoxing the skin. 

Using some ingredients from my home lab I concocted a wonderful facial in a matter of minutes.  Since I have dry skin I used French Green clay which was recommended by the herb store employee.  I normally use Moroccan Red Clay, but it works better for oily skin.  I mixed the clay with aloe juice and coconut milk until it reached the consistency of paste.  I rubbed it on my face and when I washed it off my skin felt amazing.  It even has a slight exfoliating component which removed a little dry skin as I washed my face.  I proceeded to tone my face with a homemade toner and test a new facial moisturizer I'm creating, VIOLA my face is glowing!!!!

Everyone should try it sometimes.  It's inexpensive, natural, and above all you know what you're putting on your skin.

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